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Pellet
Maintenance
Lopi Leyden™
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a topic below to jump to the maintenance procedure instructions.
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Cleaning
the Firepot: Daily or whenever using the stove.
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WARNING:
Make sure the heater has fully cooled (approximately 25 minutes) before
opening the door and conducting service.
To clean the firepot, open
the door and knock away any debris on the firepot with a screwdriver.
If severely clogged, remove the firepot to gain better access.
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Flyash
Removal: Daily or whenever using the stove.
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WARNING:
Make sure the heater has fully cooled (approximately 25 minutes) before
opening the door and conducting service.
This heater was designed
to allow for easy flyash removal with the included tools. However, to
ease maintenance, several pellet stove owners have purchased
vacuums specifically made to remove flyash. Furthermore, some of these
vacuums are heat-resistant to allow for flyash removal while it is still
warm. Do not use
a standard vacuum on this appliance (except to clean the pellet dust
out of the hopper). Standard vacuums may spread the fine particles inside
the flyash into
the home and are not heat-resistant (hot flyash may cause the internal
portion of vacuums to ignite).
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Cleaning
the Hopper: Daily or whenever using the stove.
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WARNING:
Make sure the heater has fully cooled (approximately 25 minutes) before
opening the door and conducting service.
Run the stove until the pellets
run out. Open the hopper and remove the dust and debris near the bottom
of the hopper.
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Cleaning
the Heat Exchange Tubes: Weekly
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WARNING:
Make sure the heater has fully cooled (approximately 25 minutes) before
opening the door and conducting service.
With the door closed, insert
the included tool into the hole on the heat exchanger.
Move the heat exchange cleaning rod up and down several times
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Cleaning
the Baffles: Weekly
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WARNING:
Make sure the heater has fully cooled (approximately 25 minutes) before
opening the door and conducting service.
Use both hands to lift each
baffle up and forward. Then tilt the baffle downward to remove any flyash
that may have accumulated on the top of the baffle.
NOTE: You do not need to remove the baffle from the firebox.
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Cleaning
the Ashpan: Weekly
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WARNING:
Make sure the heater has fully cooled (approximately 25 minutes) before
opening the door and conducting service.
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Lift the firepot out of its
holder. Slide the ash pan trap door forward to expose the ash dumps
(the door can be removed and cleaned if necessary.
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Vaccuum all flyash into the
ash dumps, including the flyash inside the firepot holder. Replace the
ash trap doors and firepot. Slide the ashpan trap door forward.
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Check Ashpan, dispose
of if necessary.
The ashpan has a built in handle for ease of transportation of ashes.
Note: When replacing the ash pan make sure it is pushed all the way
in.
Ashes should be placed in a metal container with a tight fitting lid.
The closed container of ashes should be placed on a noncombustible floor
or on the ground, well away from all combustible materials, pending
final disposal. If the ashes are disposed of by burial in soil or otherwise
locally dispersed, they should be retained in a closed container until
all cinders have been thoroughly cooled.
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Cleaning
the Glass: Weekly
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WARNING:
Make sure the heater has fully cooled (approximately 25 minutes) before
opening the door and conducting service.
Open the doors and clean
the glass with a non-abrasive glass cleaner and rag.
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Cleaning
the Refractory: Yearly
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WARNING:
Make sure the heater has fully cooled (approximately 25 minutes) before
opening the door and conducting service.
Remove both refractory clips.
Remove fireback and clean
refractory and the entire area behind it on both sides.
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Lift out the backwall covers and clean
out ash.
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Cleaning
the Convection Blower: Yearly
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WARNING:
Make sure the heater has fully cooled (approximately 25 minutes) before
opening the door and conducting service.
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The convection blower inlet
can be vacuumed out if needed. If extensive cleaning is needed, it can
be removed for cleaning.
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Cleaning
the Exhaust Blower: Yearly
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WARNING:
Make sure the heater has fully cooled (approximately 25 minutes) before
opening the door and conducting service.
Open hopper lid and remove
the two screws holding the side doors in place with a Phillips screwdriver.
Remove the knob on the restrictor rod. Swing the left side panel open.
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Remove the 6 screws holding
the exhaust blower motor in place with a 11/32” Socket
Pull the motor out. Be careful
not to damage the wiring or blades - replace gasket if it is damaged.
Clean the blower blades,
blower housing, and exhaust box. You may wish to use a vacuum to pull
ash out of the vent system. When replacing the motor, take care
to align the gasket.
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Check the nipple and flow
switch tube. Insert a pipe cleaner through the nipple to dislodge any
flyash. NOTE: The flow switch will shut off the auger if the tube becomes
clogged or dislodged. Make sure it is cleaned out and correctly attached.
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Cleaning
the Vent: Yearly
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WARNING:
Make sure the heater has fully cooled (approximately 25 minutes) before
opening the door and conducting service.
Whenever any portion of the
pellet vent is disconnected, the joints must be sealed with RTV 500O
F silicone sealant.
Make sure the cap is free of debris (especially if it has a screen that
could become blocked.)
Check the vent sections for creosote accumulation (indicating a poorly
burning stove). Accumulation over 1/4” must be removed.
On vertically vented systems, the dirtiest portion is often the point
where the vent turns upwards (i.e. the “Tee”). Fortunately,
the “Tee” has a built-in clean-out cover. Place a container
under the “Tee”, disconnect the cover and remove all flyash.
While open, use a flashlight to look up the vent to check for build-up.
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Door Seal:
Yearly
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WARNING:
Make sure the heater has fully cooled (approximately 25 minutes) before
opening the door and conducting service.
Air leaks into the firebox
will decrease the stove’s performance greatly, leading to excessive
sooting, inefficient burning, and perhaps a malfunction.
The door gasket must contact the entire perimeter of the door and create
an air-tight seal. To verify this, open the door, hold a dollar bill
against the body of the heater, close the door, and secure the latch.
The dollar bill should be held firmly in place (check the entire perimeter
of the door. If it is loose or falls out, the door must be adjusted
(see the following listing).
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Door Adjustment:
Yearly
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WARNING:
Make sure the heater has fully cooled (approximately 25 minutes) before
opening the door and conducting service.
Because the door is three-sided,
it is crucial the door is aligned correctly. We recommend that you open
the hopper lid and look down upon the door and body of the heater.
Correctly Aligned
Door:
When properly adjusted, the door should be evenly spaced from the front
of the stove (and shut tight, compressing the gasket).
Latch Too Tight:
This is the most common misalignment. Loosen the latch and tighten the
hinge.
Hinge Too Tight:
Loosen the hinge and tighten the latch.
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The door hinge and door latches
may be adjusted to pull the door closer to the body. Open the hopper
lid and remove the two screws holding the side doors in place.
To adjust the latch loosen
the lock nut and twist the pawl (clockwise to tighten, counter-clockwise
to loosen). Tighten the lock nut to secure in place.
With the door
closed, loosen the two bolts going through the door hinge bracket.
Loosen the four nuts used to move the hinge adjusting plate. Tighten
or loosen these these nuts to adjust the door hinge bracket. Adjust
the upper and lower nuts equally to insure the door remains level. Tighten
the four nuts.
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